The road less paved - experiencing Ruta 40

While I was in El Calafate I booked the next part of my journey Northwards. As it is a small town and still quite remote only a couple of long distance companies Taqsa/Marga and Chalten Travel make the journey to Bariloche.

Fitzroy mountain range in the distance

Both these companies run buses to Bariloche for the same price - 1,580 pesos. The only difference is the route, Chalten Travel goes along Ruta 40, which runs parallel to the Andes and is the longest road in Argentina finishing in Jujuy province in the very North, whereas Taqsa/Marga goes up the Eastern coast via Rio Gallegos.

I wanted to experience travel along Ruta 40 mainly because going with Taqsa/Marga would take me back along roads I'd already been on. At the time I didn't really think about the fact that there are still sections of Ruta 40, which are unpaved or that a large chunk of the journey would be overnight so I wouldn't see anything.

I bought my ticket and was told that I would need to switch buses - fine I thought at least I know beforehand for a change. The only catch was it looked like I would have to switch in the middle of nowhere as the point on the map was a junction where Ruta 40 meets Ruta 23. 

Needless to say I was pretty anxious about potentially being left in the middle of the Patagonian wilderness, but I needn't have worried because the bus continued on it's way to El Chalten until we met the other bus coming in the opposite direction. Both buses stopped, I got off grabbed my bag, crossed the road and got on the other bus much to the confusion of the other passengers.

The bus I had been on before the switch was a really nice semi-cama bus, the type I have been used to on other overnight journeys. The other bus, however was just a normal coach and when I stepped on what hit me first was the smell of festering bodies.

Now, I know that I didn't exactly smell like a bed of roses either. I'd lost count of the number of days I had worn the same long sleeved top and t-shirt combo, but the smell on this bus was pretty pungent to say the least.

I didn't have a seat number either and the bus was already really full so the only seat available to me was right on the back seat squished in among four other passengers, thankfully I didn't get the death seat in the middle.

I also noted there wasn't a toilet on board and assumed that we probably wouldn't get any food either - both of these things I would have got if I'd gone with Taqsa/Marga and at no extra cost as the tickets were the same price.

At this point I just had to embrace my decision and make the best of the journey, it could be worse I have friends who have had to endure long trips sat right next to a stinky toilet.   

I had eaten a big lunch so wasn't too hungry and I have learnt to always take a few snacks with me so the lack of food didn't bother me much. There were several stops to random service stations in the middle of nowhere so people could get something to eat and use the toilet. 

The last stop was at 1am and after this I settled in as best I could for what I could already tell would be a rather uncomfortable night especially as by now the roads were unpaved.

Despite the bumpiness of the road I managed to get a little sleep before the bus stopped in the town of Perito Moreno - note this isn't the same place where you can see the glacier - at 6.30am. I was supposed to go on to the final stop at Los Antiguos and pick up a bus at 7am, however I knew that it would take longer than 30 minutes to get there and the bus would have to come back through Perito Moreno anyway.

The majority of passengers leaving the bus in Perito Moreno were heading to Bariloche so I deduced that it would likely be the same bus coming through to pick them up. Thankfully I was right and my name was on the list of passengers supposed to be on the bus - did get a little ticking off by the driver though for getting on in the wrong place. 

The journey from here to Bariloche took 12 hours and I had a double seat to myself. Although, I had gone from one extreme to the other and was now sat at the front of the bus so I had to endure the driver's choice of music for the entire journey. This ranged from Argentinian pop to more mariachi style music.

I would say despite the discomfort, lack of on board meals and toilet I'm glad I did that journey. I got to see the Fitzroy mountain range in the distance and lots of other scenery I wouldn't have otherwise seen.

From previous travel experiences it is always the bits that don't pan out how you think they will that are the ones you will remember. However, if someone asked me to make that trip again I would choose Taqsa/Marga without a doubt.