Six people, three days, a 4x4 and a lot of salt

In San Pedro de Atacama I decided to take a three day 4x4 trip finishing in Uyuni, Bolivia. Emily, Kris, Korbin and Tas, who I'd met on the Pachamama trip were also planning to do the same so we decided to go together.

We went to several agencies around the town to get quotes. Most agencies all offer the same trip, but with this sort of thing going cheap probably isn't best. Eventually we settled on a company called Atacama Mistica as it was mid-priced at 85,000 pesos.

The only problem was that due to the weather the usual route to the border wasn't open, which would mean we'd miss first day's activities in order to drive to the crossing further up. We decided to wait for a couple of days until the situation changed by which time we realised there were elections in Bolivia and this means no one can work as they should be voting. So it was we opted for a departure the following day to minimise disruption.

We were given a list of things to bring for the trip including 200 Bolivianos, snacks, five litres of water each and toilet roll. As the majority of this journey would be at altitude I also took along various coca products to help with any symptoms including tea and sweets. San Pedro de Atacama is already 2,400m above sea level so we had, had time to acclimatise a bit, however on the first day of the trip we would be going up to 4,900m. 

At the Bolivian border

We were picked up at our hostel at 8.30am where we were taken to the Chilean border point in the town to get stamped out of the country. It was then a 40 minute drive out of town up into the mountains to the Bolivian border. It has to be one of the most relaxed border crossings I have done. Just an official sat in a small brick building stamping passports, no bag checks or anything.

It was all quite surreal and a little chaotic as we were on top of this mountain with snow all around us and lots of other tourists all trying to find their relevant jeep and driver. 

After the border formalities we were taken to the only other building on the mountain for breakfast. Our expectations had been low but quite a spread had been laid on - rolls, biscuits, coca tea, yogurt and apples.

We were then introduced to our driver, Nelson, who loaded our luggage on top of the 4x4 - a Toyota Landcruiser. We were also joined by a German guy called Mathis. Needless to say it was quite cosy in the vehicle but being short I didn't find legroom that much of an issue.

From the border we entered the national park, which cost 150 Bolivianos and our first stops were a couple of lagunas - Laguna Blanca (White Lagoon) and Laguna Verde (Green Lagoon) - both were incredible.   

From there we went to a hot springs, where it was possible to have a dip, although I decided not to as the pool was very busy. We then saw some geysers and I was shocked at how close we were able to get to them. 

We stopped at the Refugio where we would spend the night. It was very basic, no showers just basins and three toilets but it would do the job for one night. All six of us were in the same room, which actually had a bit of a hospital ward feel about it.

The beds were adorned with lots of blankets all with interesting designs ranging from horses and tigers to puppies. We had lunch, which consisted of hot dogs, mashed potato, cucumber and tomato. It was surprisingly nice despite being packet mix mash. 

After eating we went to the final laguna of the day - Laguna Rojo (Red Lagoon) where we saw flamingos it was amazing and the lagoon was really other-worldly.

Back to the Refugio I was feeling the affects of the altitude (4,300m) and had a slight headache. So I had a quick siesta before supper, which was a vegetable soup followed by spaghetti and a tomato sauce.

As soon as the sun set it got really chilly in the Refugio and as we had to be up early the following day we were all in bed by 8.30pm. For fear of being really cold in the night I pinched three blankets off the empty bed next to me making a grand total of seven on my bed - needless to say I had a perfectly toasty night.

The next morning after a breakfast of pancakes, dulce de leche and coca tea we made our way to the first stop of the day the stone tree. The stone tree was exactly that, a rock formation in the shape of a tree. Around the tree were loads of other volcanic rocks in various formations and it was really intriguing as to how some had become the shape they were.

We visited a couple of other lagunas, Honda and Chearcota before stopping for lunch at Laguna Hedionda. It was a lovely day and  Nelson set lunch up for us on one of the  picnic tables outside - rice, tuna, tomato, cucumber and some lollipops for dessert.

After this we stopped at a point where we could see Ollague volcano. We ended up there a bit longer than planned due to an issue with our 4x4, which seemed to involve a lot of the other drivers standing round looking at the car and giving their opinions. After about 40 minutes the issue was resolved and we were on our way again.

We had a brief stop in the village of San Juan before reaching the salt hotel on the edge of the salt flat where we would stay the night. In comparison to the Refugio it was positively luxurious. The walls of the hotel were made from salt bricks and the floor was covered in a kind of salt gravel. We were also able to take advantage of the one hot shower there, which had a time limit of 8 minutes per person.  

Dinner was chicken legs with chips and fried plantain we also had a bottle of vino tinto to share.

The next day we were up at 5am ready to leave at 5.30am to see the sunrise over the salt flat. It was quite eerie driving over the salt at that time of day as it all looked very blue, we stopped at a point where we could get out and watch the sun come up. It wasn't the best sunrise ever as there were clouds but it was still good to watch.

We then stopped at an Fisher Island on the salt flat where we had the chance to wander round and get a different perspective. I was quite out of breath at one point as I forgot about the altitude and walked too fast up a hill.

From the island we continued across the salt flat, for a while I found it difficult to process that it was salt because it is white you automatically relate it to ice. However I can confirm it is definitely salt as at one of the stops I did have to try some just to make sure. I also found it impressive that the drivers know which way they are going as everything looks the same to me and there are no definite tracks.

We had time to stop to take the standard perspective bending shots, that the salt flat is famous for.   

We then stopped at a statue made from salt commemorating the Dakar rally. From there we went to a salt lake, the water was so clear it was like a mirror.

Then we had for lunch in the small town of Colchani before visiting my second train cemetery this trip. The engines were a lot older than the ones at Baquedano and there was even a swing constructed between two of the engines. After this we reached Uyuni our final destination.

It is difficult to put into words how utterly breath taking this trip was. Everyday we saw something better than the last, it has definitely been one of the main highlights of my trip so far.