Going where the buffalo roam

Ilha de Marajó is the size of Switzerland and the largest fluvial island in the world. It is located around 50 miles from Belém.

After spending a total of 11 days on various boats some r and r was required before I made my way to Rio de Janeiro.

Boats to the island take around 3/3.5 hours and there are two departures a day from Monday to Saturday at 6.30am and 2.30pm. On Sunday there is only one boat a day at 10am.

Boats depart from the Terminal Hidroviário on Avenida Marachel Hermes in Belém to Camará on Ilha de Marajó. The main terminal is modern, has free WiFi along with some reasonably priced cafes.

Tickets can be purchased on the day and cost 20 Reals for a standard seat or 30 Reals for a VIP seat in an air conditioned room.

About 40 minutes before the boat was due to leave we were called through to the departure lounge where all luggage gets put through an x-ray. When we were allowed to board it is a bit of a free for all with everyone trying to push their way on.

The crossing was pleasant, although the plastic seats aren't the comfiest. On arrival in Camará depending on where on the island you wish to go there are numerous minibuses waiting, each with various destinations on the front. I was headed for Soure, which is the capital of the island and the biggest settlement.

I found a bus destined for Soure run by a company called Edgar Transporte. This bus provides a drop off service, you just let them know the address of where you are going.

The journey cost 12 Reals, took around an hour and included the ferry trip across the bay from Salvaterra.

I hadn't booked anywhere to stay in Soure, but asked to be dropped off at one of the hotels I'd found online before I left. Thankfully they had a room available for me. There didn't appear to be any hostels in Soure, but there are plenty of budget hotels and pousadas. I stayed at Pousada Asa Branca and an ensuite room including breakfast cost 80 Reals.

As I had arrived in darkness it wasn't until the next morning I got to see the island in all its glory. Soure is a pleasant enough place to be based, the main streets are paved and lined with mango trees. However, once off the main street the roads reduce to dust and grit.

There is an ATM in the Banco Brasil on Rua 3 between Travessa 17 and 18. The only thing I did find difficult was finding anywhere that sold large bottles of water. After trying several places I did eventually find a supermarket just off the main drag near the church, which stocked some.

The majority of people on the island either seem to get around by bike or motorcycle. There is a place called Bimba's next to a fruit shop on Rua 4 between Travessa 18 and 19, which rents bikes. However, unfortunately my plan to rent one was scuppered because the shop was closed both times I tried.

I noticed that most shops on the island close at midday or just before, so if there is something important you need it is best to head out early as I got caught out a couple of times.

There are two main beaches near Soure - Praia Pesqueiro, which is around 12km from the town and Praia Barra Velha only 2km away. Praia Pesqueiro is the bigger of the two beaches and there are lots of beachside bars and restaurants. However, I preferred Praia Barra Velha, which also had a few bars and restaurants, but didn't seem quite so dominated by them.

I went there on a Friday and it was quite quiet and then again on Sunday when it was full of families and groups of friends all enjoying themselves. There was music and a really nice atmosphere and I'm glad I got to experience the two sides to the beach.

Both beaches have gorgeous white sand and the water is pleasantly warm. It was like paradise. 

To get to the beaches I used mototaxis and there is a rank for these close to Banco Brasil. A journey to Praia Barra Velha cost 6 Reals and I arranged a time for the driver to pick me up again. The journey to Praia Pesqueiro was 15 Reals.

A trip to Ilha de Marajó wouldn't be complete without trying some of the buffalo products the island is famous for and it isn't uncommon to see buffalo randomly roaming in the town.

On my last day I treated myself to a lunch of buffalo steak at Pousada Restaurante Ilha Bela on on Rua 1 at Travessa 13. It was delicious and I am not a fan of steak, but this has to be one of the best I've ever had and at £6 it was a bargain too.

On Praia Pesqueiro I also tried some buffalo cheese, which is gorgeously creamy, although my only complaint would be that there was a lot of it just for me.

I opted to get the 6.30am boat back to Belém as I wanted to arrive there in daylight. I was able to communicate this in very broken Portuguese to the owner of my hotel and he arranged for Edgar Transporte to collect me at the ungodly hour of 4am. However, the company also has an office in the town if you prefer to do it yourself.

I spent three full days on the island and it is definitely somewhere I would visit again as I didn't explore the beaches near Salvaterra or Joanes. The people I encountered were friendly and laid back. I felt quite safe walking around by myself.

After visiting the island I spent three days in Belém, which I think is enough. The city itself is a bit rough around the edges and it is important to take care when you are out and about as petty thievery and muggings are unfortunately a common occurrence. I met two people who had been mugged during my time in the city.

I also didn't wander around on my own after dark and if I did happen to go anywhere at night I always took a taxi. That said there are some interesting places in Belém and I found it had a weird charm about it.

The Estação das Docas at the end of Avenida Presidente Vargas is a good place to go for a stroll along the waterfront and if you need some respite from the heat the air conditioned buildings, which house numerous restaurants and bars, bring some welcome relief. At night there is live music too. There is also free WiFi.

Ver o Peso just along from the Estação das Docas is definitely worth a visit. It is one of the best places in the city to sample some great regional fare at a decent price. I had some amazing fried fish with feijão, rice and a tomato and coriander salsa for 15 Reals.

Along from Ver o Peso is Forte do Castelo and Catedral de Sé. Further up Avenida Presidente Vargas is Praça Republica and the Teatro de Paz. The latter is a gorgeous building with some art deco touches to the outside. For me the park seemed a little sad, what statues there are, are covered in graffiti and it could all do with a bit of a refresh.

I also discovered some great value street stall eateries just off Avenida Presidente Vargas on the corner of C&A and Big Ben. 

I had Vatapá, which is a typical dish of the Pará region. It consists of shrimp in a thick sauce made from manioc paste, coconut and dendé oil. A full plate of Vatapá and rice cost 6 Reals.

There isn't an awful lot of choice when it comes to hostels in Belém and I stayed in the Belém Hostel on Rua Ó de Almeida. It is a family run place and a bed in a 4 bed dorm cost 45 Reals a night including breakfast. The hostel also arranges transfers to the airport for 40 Reals.